Strolling through the charming wooden alleys of Ekenäs’ Old Town (also sometimes referred with its Finnish language name Tammisaari), it’s easy to be swept into a slower, old-timey rhythm — for better or worse. Here you can walk in the footsteps of artist Helene Schjerfbeck or marvel at the odd remnants of historical punishment.
Ekenäs’ Whipping Square (Raippatori) still has an old “shame post,” once used to publicly humiliate petty criminals. While that detail may raise an eyebrow, the rest of Old Ekenäs is nothing short of idyllic.
Regarded as one of Finland’s most beautiful wooden towns, much of Ekenäs was rebuilt after a major fire in 1821, though some buildings date back to the 1700s. The street layout? That’s been around since the 1500s — which explains the delightfully narrow lanes. The vibe is lush and garden-like, dotted with quaint yards and colorful facades.
Despite being on the sea, Ekenäs was known more for its artisans than for shipbuilding. Street names reveal who lived where: Hat Maker Street, Blacksmith Street, Tanner Street, Cobbler Alley… and yes, they’re all as picturesque as they sound.
Helene Schjerfbeck’s Ekenäs
One of Ekenäs’ most famous residents was the artist Helene Schjerfbeck, who lived here for over 20 years — her most productive years, in fact, with more than 300 works created during that time.
Schjerfbeck (1862–1946) first spent summers in Ekenäs between 1918–1920 before moving in permanently in 1925, drawn by the sea air. She left in 1941 fearing a Soviet attack, but her legacy lives on.
Schjerfbeck is Finland’s most internationally valued artist — at least judging by the auction results: five of the most expensive Finnish artworks ever sold were painted by her.
In Town Hall Square, you’ll find Café Schjerfbeck, which pays homage to the artist with both its name and decor. From here, you can join a guided Schjerfbeck walking tour, led by Anne Ingman in character as the artist herself. These hour-long tours run several times a week in summer and cost €15.
While Schjerfbeck’s first home at the corner of Raaseporintie and Pitkäkatu is gone, a small memorial remains. However, her yellow wooden rental house at Kalatori is still standing.
Café Gamla Stan – The Best Café in Ekenäs
Ekenäs’ coziest café hides under apple trees: Café Gamla Stan. They serve savory pies and heavenly homemade cakes.
From here, follow Puusepänkatu to Iso Kirkkokatu, which leads to Raasepori’s beautiful church — and eventually circles back to Town Hall Square. Iso Kirkkokatu may sound like a grand boulevard, but by any other town’s standards, it’s still adorably small.
YLP! – Ekenäs’ Must-Visit Restaurant
Also on Iso Kirkkokatu sits YLP! — short for Your Local Pizza — the town’s most talked-about restaurant. Foodies drive in just for it. Chef Nick Victorzon, who trained at Copenhagen’s legendary Noma, returned to his hometown to open it.
Instead of copying Italian classics, Victorzon makes pizzas from local ingredients — even the dough is made from nearby spelt flour. Reservations are strongly recommended.
Ekenäs Church
Dominating the skyline is the tower of Ekenäs’ grey-stone church. Built in the late 1600s and rebuilt after an 1821 fire, the church was redesigned by neoclassical architect Charles Bassi — a contemporary of Carl Ludvig Engel.
Chappe – Contemporary Art in a Stunning Wooden Museum
Ekenäs’ newest gem is Chappe, a beautifully modern wooden museum. Exhibits rotate, and the views from inside are fantastic. Designed by Asmo Jaaksi of JKMM Architects (of Amos Rex fame), Chappe was funded by a foundation started by geneticist Albert de la Chapelle.
Next door is the Elverket gallery, run by Pro Artibus, which curates art from Swedish-speaking Finnish foundations.
Raasepori Museum and the Sailor’s Park
An underground walkway connects Chappe to the Raasepori Museum, where you’ll find a small exhibition on Schjerfbeck’s Ekenäs life.
Just outside is Skepparträdgården (Sailor’s Park), a spot the artist called her open-air studio. A tribute sculpture, The Finnish Untuned Bell, hangs between two steel pillars — and yes, you can ring it.
Ekenäs’ Beach and Marina
Of course, Ekenäs also has a beach — several, in fact. The largest is Knipan, right next to the Whipping Square. Nearby are the Lejonparken playground and a marina lined with restaurants like the popular island-born Pub Niska.
The most iconic restaurant is Knipan, a pavilion perched over the sea at the end of the breakwater. Legend says it was built on stilts over water when all land permits had been used up.
Right by the marina and on the edge of the old town sits the Tammisaari City Hotel — open mainly in summer.
Ekenäs’ “Castle” – The Town’s Funkiest Building
Before you leave the harbor, pop over to Linnankatu and check out the cutest “castle” in town — a pink wooden house with turrets that looks straight out of a fairytale.
Modernist Masterpiece: Alvar Aalto in Ekenäs
Modern architecture lovers take note: Alvar Aalto designed a house here for his friend, author and sailor Göran Schildt, joking: “You spend too much time abroad. I’ll build you a house that keeps you in Finland.”
The home, located behind the Sailor’s Park on Snäcksundsvägen, is visitable by appointment. Aalto’s interior design work can also be seen at the old Savings Bank on Asematie, now home to a restaurant called Piazza.
Nearby: Raasepori Castle
The city of Raasepori gets its name from the medieval castle just 17 km from Ekenäs — a perfect bike ride. The dramatic ruins are well worth the visit.
Jussarö Island and Ekenäs National Park
From Ekenäs you can take a summer boat trip to Jussarö, one of Finland’s most fascinating islands — home to an abandoned mining village, untouched old-growth forest, and a dramatic ghost-town vibe.
Iron ore was mined here until the 1960s, after which the island became a military training site. Remnants remain — as do shipwrecks, thanks to the island’s magnetic rock which once threw off compasses.
Pack a snorkel if you’re visiting in summer: water visibility can reach 12 meters — exceptional for Finland. Also on the island: a lighthouse and a cozy hostel called Kontoret, with food from Café Ön.
The reason this area remains so wild? The surrounding archipelago is protected as part of Ekenäs National Park. The park’s info center and museum are located on Rödja Farm on Älgö island.
Where to Stay in Ekenäs
Though many visit just for the day, Ekenäs is perfect for a weekend getaway — and, arguably, even prettier than its more famous neighbor Hanko.
For an upscale stay, try Hotel Sea Front, recently renovated and right on the water. You’ll also find cozy apartments for rent in the heart of the Old Town.
Getting to Ekenäs
Ekenäs is easily reached by train — the bus station is right next to the railway station. From there, it’s a 10-minute walk to Town Hall Square via Torikatu, Asematie, and finally Kuninkaankatu.
By car, it’s about 1.5 hours from either Helsinki or Turku. Parking is available at Whipping Square, the marina, and Kalatori.
From Raasepori, it’s just a 30-minute drive to Hanko if you want to keep exploring.
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